Aniseed – a flavour or a plant?

By Clive Larkman

When we consider herbs and their flavour profile, the range of flavours is amazingly large and varied. We can have a group of plants that is very different botanically but have basically the same flavour. Classics are lemons and the lemon flavour, and coriander and its distinctive flavour. The distinctive citrus lemon flavour is strong in the lemon skin and lemon oil, but also in many other plants like Lemon Gum (Corymbia citriodora), Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora), Lemon Thyme (Thymus citriodora), Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon citratus) and Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla). The essential oil profile for all these plants is different but usually contain a form of Citral or Limonene.

The flavour of coriander or cilantro is very strong and can be found in Common Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Vietnamese Coriander (Polygonum odoratum), Bolivian Coriander (Porophyllum ruderale) and Mexican Coriander (Eryngium foetidum). All of these have the distinctive flavour but are not botanically related. They are from the Apiaceae, Asteraceae and Polygonaceae families which grow in a range of climatic zones. 

Another interesting group is the Anise/Liquorice/Fennel/Star Anise range. They are all said to have an aniseed flavour and a liquorice flavour. Anise is said to have a strong liquorice flavour while liquorice is said to have a strong anise flavour. The other two will be described as either, or both. There are a few other plants that are said to have an aniseed and/or liquorice flavour including some of the basils and some tarragons. All of them have the same key ingredient oil called anethole.

Aniseed is the seed from the Anise plant (Pimpinella anisum) in the Apiaceae (or Parsley) Family. It is a small to medium herbaceous perennial. It grows to 60–80cm tall with feathery leaves that are divided into numerous small leaflets. The flowers are either white or yellow and are produced in tight umbels approximately 3mm in diameter. The fruit, dry oblong and insignificant, is commonly referred to as aniseed. The strongest flavour is in the seed, hence the use of the word to describe the flavour.

Anise plants grow best in fertile, well-drained soil and should be planted as soon as the ground warms up in spring. They have a taproot and do not transplant well, so should be transplanted while the seedlings are small. The sweet, highly fragrant oils are used in production for flavouring and for perfumes and soaps. The leaves are used to garnish dishes and can be used in preparing soups, sauces, and salads. The ground seeds are often used for seasoning cakes, pastries, cheeses, bread, and biscuits. It has good medicinal properties and was brought to Europe from Egypt where it has been cultivated for 4,000 years.

The flavours of the four plants are interchangeable in recipes with a minor change in taste but not in quality. They are differentiated as follows:

Star Anise: a subtle, sweet, and complex liquorice flavour with lemony notes

Anise: a strong, earthy, and assertive liquorice flavour

Fennel: a delicate liquorice flavor with camphor like notes 

Liquorice: a strong aniseed flavour with bitter and salty notes

All are great in cooking and making yummy teas. Add some ice, a piece of mint and a shot of gin to make a rich pre-dinner drink.